How to Fold a Pocket Square: 7 Folds Step by Step

To fold a pocket square, lay it flat, fold it into the shape you want, and fold the base up until it is as tall as your pocket depth plus the amount you want to show. The seven folds below cover every occasion. The presidential fold is flat and formal. The one-, two- and three-point folds add peaks. The puff, reverse puff and rose are soft folds for silk. A flat fold should show about 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the pocket, and peaks and puffs about 1 to 1.5 inches.

Key takeaways

• The seven essential pocket square folds are the presidential, one-point, two-point, three-point, puff, reverse puff and rose.
• Match the fold to the fabric. Linen and cotton hold crisp, flat and pointed folds. Silk suits soft folds like the puff and the rose.
• Fold the square to your pocket depth plus the amount that shows, so the base rests on the bottom of the pocket and the square stays put all day.
• Complement your tie rather than copy it, unless you want a matching set. A white square works with every jacket.
• For black tie, a white square in a presidential fold is the standard.

What is a pocket square?

A pocket square is a small square of fabric worn folded in the breast pocket of a suit jacket, sport coat or tuxedo. It is there for looks, not for use. It is one of the accessories that finish a suit. Pocket squares come in silk, satin, linen, cotton and wool.

A handkerchief is different. It is carried in a trouser pocket and is meant to be used. A pocket square stays in the jacket and is never used to wipe anything. The only pocket for a pocket square is the breast pocket on the left side of the chest.

Before you start: fabric, height and pocket depth

Two choices decide whether a fold looks right: the fabric and the height.

The fabric has to suit the fold. Crisp folds with straight edges and points need fabric that holds a crease, such as linen or cotton. Soft, rounded folds need fabric that drapes, such as silk. A silk square in a flat fold tends to slip down into the pocket. A linen square in a puff looks stiff and flat.

The height comes from your pocket. Slide two fingers into the pocket to feel how deep it is. Hold the folded square against the outside of the pocket with its base at that depth, then fold the base up or down until the right amount shows above the edge. The base then rests on the bottom of the pocket, and the fold stays at the right height. How much should show depends on the fold:

• Presidential (flat) fold: about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
• Pointed folds: about 1 to 1.5 inches at the tallest peak.
• Puff and rose folds: about 1 to 1.5 inches of rounded fabric.

New jackets often arrive with the breast pocket tacked shut by a loose basting stitch. Snip that stitch carefully with small scissors before you insert the square.

To see three folds side by side, watch the SARTORO reel on Instagram. It shows the presidential, puff and four-point folds and when to wear each.

Watch the reel: the presidential fold on green shows only a thin strip. The four-point fold on brown corduroy and the puff on navy sit higher.

Presidential fold

The presidential fold, also called the flat or square fold, is a straight band of fabric that sits parallel to the pocket. It is the simplest fold and the most formal.

1. Lay the square flat, face down.
2. Fold it in half from left to right to make a tall rectangle.
3. Fold the bottom edge up to just below the top edge. If the square is still taller than your pocket depth plus about 1/4 to 1/2 inch, fold the bottom up again until it matches. With a small square, one fold is often enough.
4. Fold the sides in until the square is just narrower than the pocket.
5. Turn it upside down, so the clean folded edge is on top. Slide it into the pocket, so a straight line of fabric shows.

Difficulty: easy. Formality: the most formal fold, and the standard for black tie. Best fabric: linen or cotton.

One-point fold

The one-point fold shows a single triangle peak above the pocket. It is the most versatile fold, at home with a business suit or a sport coat.

1. Lay the square flat as a diamond, with one corner pointing up.
2. Fold the bottom corner up to just below the top corner to make a triangle.
3. Fold the left corner about two-thirds of the way across.
4. Fold the right corner over it, so the width matches your pocket.
5. Fold the base up to set the height, then tuck it in with the point up.

Difficulty: easy. Formality: business to formal. Best fabric: linen, cotton or a crisp silk.

Two-point fold

The two-point fold shows two peaks side by side. It looks a little more relaxed than the one-point.

1. Lay the square flat as a diamond.
2. Fold the bottom corner up so it lands slightly to the left of the top corner. You now have two peaks.
3. Fold the left side in toward the center.
4. Fold the right side over it, so the width matches your pocket.
5. Fold the base up to set the height, then tuck it in with both peaks showing.

Difficulty: easy. Formality: business and smart casual. Best fabric: linen or cotton.

Three-point fold

The three-point fold, often called the crown fold, shows three peaks in a fan. It is the most decorative of the pointed folds.

1. Lay the square flat as a diamond.
2. Fold the bottom corner up so it lands just to the left of the top corner, making two peaks.
3. Fold the bottom-left corner up and across, so its tip lands just to the right of the top corner. That makes the third peak.
4. Fold the right side over to the left, so the width matches your pocket.
5. Fold the base up to set the height, then tuck it in with the three peaks showing.

Difficulty: medium. Formality: weddings, events and smart casual. Best fabric: linen, cotton or wool.

Puff fold

The puff fold shows a soft, rounded dome of fabric. It is the easiest soft fold and suits silk best.

1. Lay the square flat.
2. Pinch the center of the square and lift it, so the four corners hang down.
3. Close your other hand loosely around the hanging fabric, just below the center.
4. Fold the hanging corners up behind the puff until the bundle is as tall as your pocket depth plus about 1 to 1.5 inches. Keep the corner tips below the rounded top.
5. Tuck it into the pocket with the rounded top showing, then adjust it until it looks relaxed.

Difficulty: easy. Formality: smart casual, weddings and events. Best fabric: silk.

For a winged puff, pull two corners up at the sides of the puff before you tuck it in, so their tips show next to the rounded top.

Reverse puff fold

The reverse puff fold shows the corner tips standing up out of the pocket, instead of the rounded top. It looks more relaxed than the puff.

1. Lay the square flat.
2. Pinch the center and lift it, so the corners hang down.
3. Close your other hand loosely around the fabric, just below the center.
4. Turn the bundle upside down, so the corner tips point up and the rounded center points down.
5. Fold the rounded end up behind the tips until the bundle is as tall as your pocket depth plus about 1 to 1.5 inches.
6. Tuck the folded end into the pocket, then spread the tips slightly.

Difficulty: easy. Formality: smart casual and relaxed events. Best fabric: silk.

Rose fold

The rose fold twists the square into a spiral that looks like a flower. It is the most decorative fold and works best for weddings and celebrations.

1. Lay the square flat.
2. Pinch the center and twist the square several times, so the fabric forms a tight spiral.
3. Hold the spiral and fold the loose corners down under it to form a base, until the rose is as tall as your pocket depth plus about 1 inch.
4. Tuck the base into the pocket, so only the spiral shows.
5. Open the outer layers of the spiral slightly, so they look like petals.

Difficulty: medium. Formality: weddings and celebrations. Best fabric: silk, in a smaller square.

Which pocket square fold for which occasion

Use a presidential fold for black tie, funerals and conservative business settings. A one-point fold suits almost any suit. For weddings and outfits without a tie, a puff or a pointed fold works well.

• Business suit: a presidential or one-point fold in white or a quiet color. Keep the square plain.
• Wedding guest: a one-point, two-point or puff fold in a color that picks up the tie or shirt. The wedding guest attire guide covers the rest of the outfit.
• Groom and groomsmen with a boutonniere: wear the boutonniere in the lapel buttonhole and the square in the breast pocket below it. Keep both small, and use a presidential or one-point fold so the chest does not look crowded. Choose a square that complements the flower rather than matching it.
• Black tie (the dress code for a tuxedo or dinner jacket): a white square in a presidential fold is the standard. White linen or cotton is the traditional choice, and a white silk puff is an accepted alternative. The white tie vs. black tie guide explains both dress codes. For the bow tie itself, see how to tie a bow tie.
• Funeral: a white square in a presidential fold, or no square at all. The funeral attire guide covers the rest of the outfit.
• No tie: a one-point or puff fold, with the color taken from the shirt or the jacket.

How to match a pocket square

A pocket square should usually complement your tie rather than copy it. These rules work with almost any outfit:

• Pick a secondary color: take a quieter color from the tie or shirt and make it the main color of the square.
• Change the pattern scale: with a small-patterned tie, choose a solid square or a larger pattern. Two patterns of the same size side by side look busy.
• Stay in one color family: a square in the same color as the tie works if it is clearly lighter or darker.
• Use one loud piece: if the tie is bold, keep the square plain, and the other way around.
• Fall back on white: a white square works with every jacket and every tie.
• Without a tie: take the color from the shirt or the jacket, and keep the fold calm.

For the rest of your accessories, see the guide to finishing an outfit with accessories.

A square cut from the same fabric as the tie reads as a set, and wedding parties often choose that look on purpose. If you wear a matching set, keep the shirt plain. SARTORO's Tie & Pocket Square set is cut from the lining you choose for a suit or jacket, and it is sold only with a suit or jacket.

A square cut from the suit cloth gives a quieter look in the same color as the jacket. For a navy suit, see which tie colors work with a navy suit. The pocket squares collection carries solid satin squares in many colors, including white, plus patterned squares.

Pocket square fabric and size

The right pocket square fabric depends on the fold: linen and cotton hold flat and pointed folds, and silk suits soft folds. Most pocket squares measure about 10 to 17 inches on each side.

• Silk: soft and fluid, with a light sheen. It suits the puff, reverse puff and rose. It slips out of flat folds unless the square is large.
• Satin: a smooth, shiny weave, made from silk or from synthetic fibers. It is slippery like silk, so it suits soft folds and needs a larger square to stay up in a flat fold.
• Linen: crisp, and it holds a sharp crease. It suits the presidential and pointed folds, and it is the traditional choice for black tie. It wrinkles easily, so press it before wearing.
• Cotton: semi-structured and matte. It holds flat and pointed folds and is easy to start with.
• Wool: textured, with some body. It suits the three-point fold and fall and winter outfits.

A larger square fills the pocket and stays in place better, which matters most for silk. A smaller square suits the rose fold and a shallow pocket.

How to keep a pocket square in place

To keep a pocket square in place, fold it to your pocket depth plus the amount that shows, so the base rests on the bottom of the pocket. A square slips when it is too short, too narrow or too slippery for the pocket. Four habits keep it in place:

• Fold to the pocket depth: the base should rest on the bottom of the pocket, so the square cannot sink.
• Match the pocket width: fold the square only as narrow as it needs to be to slide in. A snug fit holds it without stretching the jacket.
• Use more fabric for silk and satin: a larger square folds into more layers, and more layers grip better than a small square.
• Check it after you sit: pocket squares move when you sit and stand. Push the base down and lift the fold back into shape.

Pocket square mistakes

The most common pocket square mistakes are matching the tie by accident, showing too much fabric, and using the wrong fabric for the fold.

• Matching the tie by accident: an exact match looks planned only when you mean it. Wear a set when you want that look. Otherwise, choose a square that complements the tie.
• Showing too much fabric: a square that spills out of the pocket looks untidy. Keep it within about 1/2 inch for a flat fold and about 1.5 inches for peaks and puffs.
• Using the wrong fabric for the fold: silk in a flat fold slips, and linen in a puff looks stiff.
• Showing the back of a print: printed squares are often pale on the back. Choose a fold that keeps the printed side out.
• Leaving the label out: tuck the care label inside the fold.

Frequently asked questions

What is the most popular pocket square fold?

The presidential and one-point folds are the most common. Nearly every fold guide teaches them first. The presidential fold is the most formal, and the one-point fold works for both business and social events.

Do you wear a pocket square with a tuxedo?

Yes. A pocket square is optional with a tuxedo, but it is the traditional finish. A white pocket square in a presidential fold is the standard for black tie. White linen or cotton is traditional, and a white silk puff is an accepted alternative. The guide to wearing a tuxedo covers the rest of the outfit.

Can you wear a pocket square without a tie?

Yes. Without a tie, the pocket square becomes the main accessory. Choose a one-point or puff fold, and take the color from the shirt or the jacket.

How much of a pocket square should show?

About 1/4 to 1/2 inch for a flat presidential fold, and about 1 to 1.5 inches for peaks and puffs. Fold the square to your pocket depth plus that amount, so it stays at that height.

How do you put a pocket square in a suit pocket?

Fold the square until it is just narrower than the pocket and as tall as the pocket depth plus the amount that shows. Slide it in until the base rests on the bottom of the pocket, then straighten the top.

What color pocket square goes with everything?

White. A white square works with every jacket and every tie, and it is the standard for black tie.

Should a pocket square match the tie?

Usually not. A pocket square looks best when it complements the tie: use a secondary color from the tie or shirt, or choose white. A matching tie and pocket square set is a deliberate choice that reads as one unit. Wedding parties often choose it for that reason.

Can you wear a pocket square and a boutonniere together?

Yes. The boutonniere goes in the lapel buttonhole and the square in the breast pocket. Keep both small, and choose a presidential or one-point fold.

When should you not wear a pocket square?

Skip the pocket square with a jacket that has no breast pocket, and at events where the outfit should stay as plain as possible. At a funeral, wear a plain white square or none.

What size pocket square should I buy?

Most pocket squares measure about 10 to 17 inches on each side. Choose a larger square for silk and soft folds, and a smaller one for the rose fold or a shallow pocket.