Loro Piana: The Pinnacle of Italian Wool

When a man asks his tailor what is the best fabric he can get, one name surfaces more than any other: Loro Piana. The house is not the oldest mill in Italy, and it does not produce the highest volume. What Loro Piana does, more consistently than any competitor, is set the ceiling for what wool, cashmere and vicuna can become in the hands of a master weaver.

• Founded: 1924, by Pietro Loro Piana in Quarona, Piedmont, Italy
• Family roots in wool: early 1800s, originally as wool merchants in Trivero
• Mill location: Roccapietra and Quarona, in the Valsesia valley of Piedmont
• Ownership: majority owned by LVMH (94% as of 2025); the founding family retains a 6% stake
• Scale: approximately 14.8 million metres of fabric per year
• Production model: fully vertical , from raw fiber sourcing to finished cloth
• Positioning: the top tier of the luxury mill ladder
• Best known for: Baby Cashmere, Vicuña, Tasmanian travel wool, Storm System weather-resistant finishes, Australis Super 150s
• House character: unmatched softness and hand feel, even at lower Super numbers; rich, deep coloration; natural elasticity and recovery

The Loro Piana story is less about a single founding moment and more about a family that spent two centuries getting closer to the raw material.

The family appears in trade records from the early 1800s in Trivero, a small town in the Biella district of Piedmont , the same alpine valley that produced Vitale Barberis Canonico. For decades they operated as wool merchants, buying fleece and selling cloth. The formal company arrived in 1924, when the engineer Pietro Loro Piana established Loro Piana & C. in Quarona. The timing was unglamorous: a global economic crisis, rising protectionism, and a textile market in contraction. The family persisted.

After the Second World War, Franco Loro Piana , Pietro's grandson , took over and began exporting to Europe, the Americas and Japan. The postwar boom in haute couture created demand for the fine Italian wool that the Loro Piana name had come to signify. By the 1970s, Franco's sons Sergio and Pier Luigi were running the operation, and they redirected the company toward the two things that would define it for the next fifty years: rare fibers and vertical integration.

The rare fiber revolution

Sergio and Pier Luigi's generation made the strategic decision to source directly from the origin of the world's finest animal fibers. Cashmere from the high plateaus of Mongolia and Inner Mongolia. Vicuña from the Andean highlands of Peru. Merino from specific stations in Australia and New Zealand. Rather than buying fleece on the open market and accepting whatever grade arrived, Loro Piana embedded itself at the source. Each cashmere goat in their Mongolian supply chain is individually numbered and tracked. The number of animals is deliberately limited , more goats grazing the already fragile steppe grassland would accelerate desertification and destroy the very resource the business depends on.

In 1994, Loro Piana began working with vicuña fiber. Three years later, the company reached an agreement with the Peruvian government and Andean communities to source vicuña exclusively from live animals, sheared and released , a practice that had been abandoned for centuries. In 2008, Loro Piana helped finance Peru's first private nature preserve for vicuñas. This is not philanthropy as a side project; it is supply-chain strategy at the longest possible time horizon.

The LVMH chapter

In July 2013, LVMH acquired an 80% stake in Loro Piana for $2.6 billion. Sergio Loro Piana died later that year; Pier Luigi remained involved in an advisory capacity. The Arnault family brought capital, global retail infrastructure, and a long-term commitment to keeping the brand at the apex of luxury. By late 2025, LVMH had increased its stake to 94%, acquiring additional shares for approximately €1 billion from the founding family. The manufacturing base remains entirely in Italy , all production sites are in Piedmont , and the Loro Piana name still appears on every bolt of cloth.

Loro Piana organizes its suiting collection by fiber, weight and end use. These are the named lines a tailor or clothier will offer you, and what each one does.

Tasmanian: the travel workhorse

Tasmanian is Loro Piana's answer to the question "what do I wear when I fly three times a month?" The fabric is woven from Super 150s to Super 170s merino wool with a high-twist yarn that gives it natural wrinkle recovery and resilience. A Tasmanian suit packed in a carry-on and pulled out at a hotel will hang out within minutes. The range includes year-round weights and a lighter Summer Tasmanian for warm climates. If you travel frequently and need a suit that performs, this is the reference cloth.

Australis Super 150s: the daily luxury

Australis is Loro Piana's core Super 150s merino wool, sourced from specific Australian stations selected for fiber consistency. At 150s fineness, the fabric sits at the edge where softness and durability still coexist , fine enough to feel silk-like against the skin, dense enough to hold a crease and drape cleanly through a full day. The color depth is notable: Loro Piana's proprietary dyeing process produces shades that stay rich through years of wear, a quality that becomes visible when you compare an Australis navy to a generic Super 150s after six months of rotation.

Cashmere and Baby Cashmere suiting

Loro Piana is the world's largest buyer of cashmere fiber, and its suiting collection includes both 100% cashmere and cashmere-wool blends. Regular cashmere runs around 15 microns; baby cashmere , sourced from the first combing of Hircus goat kids in Mongolia , measures approximately 13.5 microns, making it perceptibly softer. A cashmere-wool blend suit (typically 90% wool, 10% cashmere) delivers visible softness and a subtle sheen without the maintenance demands of pure cashmere. Pure cashmere suiting exists but is reserved for special-occasion garments: overcoats, dinner jackets, and pieces worn infrequently enough to justify the delicacy.

Vicuña: the fiber of the gods

Vicuña fiber measures approximately 12 microns , finer than the best cashmere , and comes from a camelid native to the Andean highlands. The animal cannot be domesticated; it must live wild, and each shearing yields only a small amount of usable fiber. A vicuña overcoat from Loro Piana retails in the range of $30,000 and above. As a suiting fabric, vicuña is extraordinarily rare and typically commissioned rather than selected from a swatch book. It is the ceiling of the luxury ladder, and Loro Piana is the only mill with the supply-chain relationships to offer it at scale.

Storm System: weather without compromise

Storm System is Loro Piana's proprietary treatment that makes natural fibers water-resistant and wind-resistant without laminating a synthetic membrane. The outer surface repels rain; the inner face retains the hand feel of wool or cashmere. A Storm System overcoat in 90% wool and 10% cashmere will shed a downpour while feeling like a natural fiber garment , no plasticky drape, no synthetic sheen. The technology applies to suiting as well, though it is most commonly encountered in outerwear and travel pieces.

The high-Super rungs: Super 180s and above

Loro Piana weaves fabrics at Super 180s, 200s and beyond for clients who prioritize softness above all else. These fabrics are extraordinarily fine , almost silk-like , but they sacrifice durability and wrinkle resistance in proportion. They are appropriate for ceremonial garments, evening wear, and occasions where the suit is worn for hours, not days. As a daily rotation choice, a Super 200s will show wear faster than a Super 130s or 150s from the same mill.

What makes Loro Piana different from other luxury mills, and when should you choose it.

Vertical integration from fiber to fabric

Most mills buy raw wool and process it. Loro Piana owns relationships with the source , the sheep stations, the cashmere herders, the vicuña communities , and controls every stage from raw fiber to finished cloth. This means quality decisions begin before the fleece arrives at the mill. The company can select for characteristics that no measurable specification captures: the way a fiber takes dye, the way it recovers from compression, the way it feels after years of wear.

The finishing advantage

Raw fiber quality matters, but finishing is where Loro Piana's competitors acknowledge the gap. The same 150s merino from the same Australian station will feel different after Loro Piana's finishing process than after another mill's. The house invests heavily in proprietary mechanical and chemical treatments that enhance softness, luster and hand feel without compromising the fiber's natural structure. A tailor who has handled Loro Piana cloth at a trade fair will tell you that the difference is immediate and tactile , the fabric simply feels different under the fingers.

Color depth and consistency

Loro Piana's dyeing process produces colors with unusual depth and saturation. A navy from Loro Piana reads as a deeper, richer navy than the same color number from a mid-tier mill. The dyes are also engineered for longevity: the fabric resists fading from sunlight and dry cleaning, which matters for a garment that should last a decade.

Innovation within tradition

The Storm System treatment is the most visible example, but Loro Piana also pioneered the Tasmanian high-twist travel wool and continues to develop new fabric constructions that combine natural fiber hand feel with functional performance. The company's research division works on fiber treatments that improve wrinkle recovery, moisture management and UV resistance , all within a natural-fiber framework.

The luxury suit fabric market has a clear hierarchy, and Loro Piana occupies the top commercial tier.

Accessible luxury: Vitale Barberis Canonico, Reda, Marzotto , excellent mills producing millions of metres of quality cloth at moderate prices. A VBC Super 110s suit is a serious garment.

Upper-mid tier: Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry, Scabal , historic houses with distinctive house styles, strong in specific areas (Dormeuil's finishing, H&S's British worsteds, Scabal's range and innovation).

Premium: Loro Piana, Zegna (fabric division), Carlo Barbera , the mills that luxury houses source from when the brief is "the best available."

Above premium: Vicuña and ultra-limited editions from Loro Piana, plus a handful of artisan weavers producing custom-only cloth in very small quantities.

The price gap between tiers is significant. A custom suit in VBC Perennial Super 110s typically starts around $1,500–$2,500. The same suit in Loro Piana Australis Super 150s starts around $3,000–$4,000. In Tasmanian or cashmere blends, $4,000–$6,000. In pure cashmere or vicuña, the ceiling is essentially open.

Loro Piana is not automatically the right choice for every suit. The decision depends on what you need the garment to do.

Choose Loro Piana when:

• Softness is the priority. If the hand feel of the fabric is the single most important factor , the way it feels against the skin, the way it drapes , no other commercial mill matches Loro Piana at the same Super number.
• You want a wedding or occasion suit. A groom's suit in Loro Piana Super 150s or a cashmere blend photographs beautifully and signals refinement without ostentation.
• You travel frequently. The Tasmanian range is purpose-built for men who need a suit that performs across time zones and climates.
• Color depth matters. If you wear navy, charcoal or deep earth tones regularly, Loro Piana's dye richness is visible and sustained.
• Budget is secondary to quality. If the question is "what is the best fabric for this suit" rather than "what is the best value," Loro Piana is the answer.

Consider a more accessible mill when:

• You need a daily rotation suit. A VBC Perennial or Reda Super 110s will outlast a Super 180s Loro Piana at a fraction of the cost, and the visual difference is minimal in a business setting.
• You prefer a structured, crisp hand. British mills like Holland & Sherry produce fabrics with more body and a crisper drape. Loro Piana's house style is soft and fluid , some men find it insufficiently structured for their taste.
• Wrinkle resistance is critical. A high-twist mohair blend from a mid-tier mill will recover from creasing better than a soft Loro Piana Super 150s.
• You are building your first three suits. The price premium is best appreciated once you already own the basics and can compare directly.

A Loro Piana suit rewards proper care with decades of wear. The same rules that apply to any fine wool apply here, with extra attention to the fabric's softness.

• Rest between wears. Give the suit at least 24 hours on a shaped wooden hanger between uses. The natural elasticity of fine merino or cashmere needs time to recover.
• Brush after each wear. A soft horsehair brush removes surface dust and restores the nap. This is the single most effective maintenance step.
• Dry clean sparingly. Fine fibers lose their finishing treatment with repeated chemical cleaning. Clean only when visibly soiled , typically once or twice per year for regular rotation, less for occasional wear.
• Steam, don't iron. A handheld steamer removes wrinkles without pressing the nap flat. If you must iron, use a pressing cloth and low heat.
• Store properly. Use a breathable garment bag for long-term storage. Avoid plastic, which traps moisture and can dull the fabric's surface.
• Rotate. Even the finest fabric wears faster when worn in continuous rotation. A two-suit rotation extends the life of both.

Is Loro Piana worth the price premium over VBC or Reda?

It depends on your priorities. If softness, color depth and hand feel matter more than cost-per-wear, yes. If you need a durable daily suit at the best value, VBC or Reda delivers more for the money. The Loro Piana premium buys you a measurable difference in tactile quality and a less measurable difference in visual appearance from across a room.

What is the best Loro Piana fabric for a first suit?

The Australis Super 150s range offers the best balance of luxury and practicality. It is soft enough to appreciate the Loro Piana difference, durable enough for regular wear, and priced below the cashmere and vicuña tiers. If you travel frequently, consider Tasmanian instead.

How does Loro Piana compare to Zegna fabric?

Ermenegildo Zegna operates its own fabric division and produces cloth of comparable quality. The difference is largely one of house style: Zegna fabrics tend toward a slightly crisper hand, while Loro Piana leans softer. Both supply the luxury market; the choice is subjective.

Can I get a Loro Piana suit at Sartoro?

Yes. Sartoro offers Loro Piana fabrics across multiple collections. [Browse our Loro Piana suiting →](https://sartoro.co/collections/super-130s-merino-wool-suits)

Is a higher Super number always better?

No. Super number measures fiber fineness, not quality. A Super 180s is softer but less durable than a Super 130s. For daily wear, Super 120s–150s offers the best balance. Higher numbers are appropriate for occasion wear where the suit is worn for hours, not days.

What is the difference between Loro Piana fabric and Loro Piana ready-to-wear?

Loro Piana sells fabric to tailors and luxury houses, and also produces its own ready-to-wear clothing. The fabric carries a Loro Piana label sewn into the garment; the ready-to-wear is sold through Loro Piana boutiques. The fabric quality is the same; the construction, styling and price point differ.

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Related Reading:

• [Vitale Barberis Canonico: The World's Oldest Suit Fabric Mill](/blogs/sartorial/vitale-barberis-canonico-fabric)
• [Suit Fabric Types: Reading Fiber, Weave and Weight](/blogs/sartorial/suit-fabric-types)