Understanding Fit

Lapel

Torso

Arm Holes

Closure

Backline

Sleeves

Pants

Break

Collar

Shoulders

Vents

Length

Proper Lapel Width

The proper lapel depends on body size - narrow lapels are best suited for shorter & thinner men, wide lapels for larger, taller men. The lapels should lay flat against your chest without buckling.

Flattering Torso Shape

A great fit flatters your body, with as much of an hourglass shape as possible. The tapering at the waist makes your shoulders appear broader and your midsection leaner. A proper fit will feel snug against your back and upper waist.

High Arm Holes

Higher arm holes offer greater mobility and less bunching. They should feel comfortable, but in a custom suit don't expect to be able to raise your arms above your head, especially when the front button is fastened.

Comfortable Jacket Closure

A proper suit should button snugly and should fasten 1.5"-2" above your navel. Minor wrinkle lines extending outward from the button when closed are okay, but significant pulling indicates the jacket is too tight.

Backline Contour

A bespoke jacket should follow the natural arch of the backline, tapering in from the shoulder blades then back out to the rear.

Pants Fit

We recommend a flat front, slim fit style, but that's ultimately up to you. Sartoro pants taper down to the knee, leaving enough room for movement while still maintaining a snug fit.

Sleeve Length

The proper sleeve extends to just above your wrist, leaving enough room to show 1/4" - 3/4" of a proper length shirt.

Pants Break

This is a matter of preference, but we recommend a length that covers the tops of your shoes with no or at most a partial break in the fabric. The pants should not bunch. We recommend no cuffs for a modern look.

Collar

The back of the jacket should sit smoothly against your upper back, allowing 1/2"-3/4" of the shirt collar to be visible above the jacket.

Jacket Length

This is a matter of preference, but modern style favors a shorter length that should finish between midway and just above the base of your rear. The final length depends on the cut of the suit (slim, modern or classic).

Shoulders

The jacket should lay flat across the shoulder blades, extending to the edge of your natural shoulders. If lines across the middle of the back or billowing occurs, the shoulders are not sized properly.

Vents

With the exception of certain tuxedos, a jacket should always have vents. Single vents offer a casual look while double vents provide a more formal, bespoke appearance.