Types of Lapels: Notch, Peak and Shawl

The three main types of lapels are notch, peak and shawl. A lapel is the folded-back flap on the front of a jacket that continues from the collar down to the top button. The notch lapel has a V-shaped cut where the collar meets the lapel and suits most occasions. The peak lapel points up toward the shoulder and looks more formal. The shawl lapel is one smooth curve with no cut and is worn on tuxedos and dinner jackets.

Key takeaways

• The three main types of lapels are notch, peak and shawl.
• A notch lapel is the default for business suits, interviews and most weddings.
• A peak lapel is more formal. It is standard on double-breasted jackets and correct on a tuxedo.
• A shawl lapel belongs on tuxedos and dinner jackets, not on business suits.
• Lapel width should match your build and your tie. About 3.25 inches (8.3 cm) is the middle ground.
• A well-made lapel rolls in a soft curve instead of lying in a pressed crease.

What is a lapel?

A lapel is the part of a jacket front that folds back below the collar. Merriam-Webster defines it as the turned-back fold on the front of a coat, usually a continuation of the collar. The word is "lap", meaning a covering, plus "-el", a suffix that marks something small. It dates from 1751, according to Etymonline.

The collar goes around the back of the neck. The lapel is the front panel that folds open across the chest. On a notch or peak lapel, the two are separate pieces joined at a seam. On a shawl lapel, they form one continuous piece, so there is no gorge seam and no notch. A few terms describe the lapel:

• Gorge: the seam where the collar joins the lapel.
• Notch or peak: the shape cut at the gorge, which gives each lapel type its name.
• Roll line: the line where the lapel folds back from the jacket front.
• Lapel buttonhole: the hole on the left lapel, used for a boutonniere or a lapel pin. Double-breasted jackets often have one on each lapel.

The guide to the parts of a suit covers the rest of the jacket, and the guide to suit jacket styles shows how the lapel changes from one jacket to the next.

Notch lapel

The notch lapel has a V-shaped cut where the collar meets the lapel. It is the most common lapel and the least formal of the three.

• Where it is standard: single-breasted suits, sport coats and blazers.
• Formality: business and smart casual. It is right for interviews, office wear, funerals and most weddings.
• Look: quiet and familiar. It works with almost any build and any tie.

If you own one suit, it should have a notch lapel. The suits collection shows the notch lapel on most single-breasted models.

Peak lapel

The peak lapel has a point that rises toward the shoulder. It draws the eye up and out, so the shoulders look broader and the chest looks stronger.

• Where it is standard: double-breasted jackets and many tuxedos. It also appears on single-breasted suits for a bolder look.
• Formality: more formal than the notch. It suits weddings and evening events. For black tie, it belongs on a tuxedo with a satin or grosgrain facing.
• Look: confident and sharp. On a single-breasted suit, it reads as a deliberate choice.

The peak lapel is the classic choice for a power suit, which the guide to dressing like Harvey Specter covers. On a double-breasted jacket, the peak balances the overlapping front. The double-breasted suit guide explains that style in full, and the double-breasted suits collection shows the peak lapel on double-breasted jackets.

Shawl lapel

The shawl lapel, also called a shawl collar, is one smooth, rounded curve from the collar to the button. It has no notch and no peak.

• Where it is standard: tuxedos and dinner jackets.
• Formality: evening wear. It is correct for black tie and less suited to daytime events.
• Look: soft and elegant, especially with a satin or grosgrain facing.

A shawl lapel is out of place on a business suit. Keep it for a tuxedo or a dinner jacket.

Peak vs. notch lapel

The difference between a peak and a notch lapel is the shape at the gorge and the level of formality. A notch lapel cuts a V into the lapel and stays quiet. A peak lapel points upward and looks more formal and more assertive.

• Choose a notch lapel for a first suit, a business wardrobe, interviews and funerals.
• Choose a peak lapel for a double-breasted jacket, a tuxedo, a formal wedding or an evening event, or when you want a stronger shoulder line.
• Either works for a wedding guest suit and for most social events.

If you are unsure, the notch lapel is the safer choice. It suits more occasions and more builds.

Lapels on a tuxedo

A tuxedo traditionally has a peak or a shawl lapel. Both are correct for black tie. A notch lapel tuxedo is accepted, but it is the least traditional and looks closer to a suit.

Tuxedo lapels are usually faced with satin or grosgrain, a ribbed fabric that is usually silk. The facing is the clearest sign of a tuxedo jacket. The guide to what a tuxedo is covers the rest of the jacket, the guide to how to wear a tuxedo covers black tie styling, and the white tie vs. black tie guide explains the dress code. The tuxedos collection includes peak and shawl lapel tuxedos, and the tuxedo vs. suit guide compares the two jackets.

Lapel width

Most lapels are between 2.75 and 3.75 inches (7 to 9.5 cm) wide, measured across the widest part of the lapel.

• Narrow (about 2.75 inches, 7 cm): suits a slim build and a narrow tie. Very narrow lapels date quickly.
• Regular (about 3.25 inches, 8.3 cm): the middle ground. It works on most builds and stays in style.
• Wide (about 3.75 inches, 9.5 cm, and up): suits a broad build or a double-breasted jacket.

Two rules keep the width in proportion:

• Halfway to the shoulder: the lapel should reach about halfway from the collar to the edge of the shoulder.
• Match the tie: the widest part of the tie should be about the same width as the lapel.

At SARTORO, lapel width is an option on every jacket, from narrow (about 2.75 inches, 7 cm) to extra wide (about 4.25 inches, 10.8 cm).

Why a good lapel rolls

A good lapel rolls in a soft curve from the collar to the top button. It does not lie in a sharp, pressed crease. The roll comes from how the jacket is built.

Canvassed jackets. In a canvassed jacket, a layer of canvas sits between the outer fabric and the lining. The canvas runs up into the lapel and is stitched to it, so the lapel holds a natural curve. SARTORO suits and tuxedos are half canvassed as standard. The canvas lines the top half of the jacket front, lapels included, with synthetic horsehair padding.

Fused jackets. In a fused jacket, a thin stiffening layer is glued to the back of the outer fabric instead. The lapel is pressed flat into its fold. Over time, the glue can loosen and the fabric can bubble.

You can check a lapel in a store or at home:

• Look at the roll: a canvassed lapel curves gently along the roll line. A fused lapel often folds in a flat, sharp line.
• Check the edge: the lapel edge should lie flat against the chest and should not curl outward.
• Compare both sides: both lapels should be the same width and roll the same way.
• Press and release: press the lapel flat with your hand and let go. A canvassed lapel springs back into its curve. A fused lapel stays flat or shows a hard crease.

Do not press the roll line flat with an iron. Steam the jacket instead, so the lapel keeps its curve. The guide to telling a quality suit lists the other signs of good construction.

Lapel details

Three smaller details change how a lapel looks:

• Gorge height: a higher gorge makes the chest look longer and looks more modern. A lower gorge looks more traditional.
• Lapel buttonhole: most lapel buttonholes are stitched by machine. A Milanese buttonhole is sewn by hand with a raised, rounded edge. Some jackets leave the buttonhole off for a cleaner look.
• Pick stitching: a fine line of stitches set about a quarter inch inside the lapel edge. It began as a hand stitch, but machines now copy it, so it does not prove a jacket was made by hand.

At SARTORO, the lapel buttonhole and the edge stitching are options you can choose when you customize a jacket.

How to choose a lapel

Choose the lapel type for the occasion first, then the width for your build.

• Business and interviews: a notch lapel in a regular width.
• Weddings: a notch or peak lapel for a guest, and a peak or shawl lapel for a black tie wedding.
• Black tie: a peak or shawl lapel with a satin or grosgrain facing.
• Double-breasted jacket: a peak lapel.
• Slim build: a narrow to regular width, in a notch or peak lapel.
• Broad build: a regular to wide width, so the lapel stays in proportion with the chest and shoulders.
• Shorter build: a regular width, and a slightly higher gorge to make the torso look longer.

For fit around the chest and shoulders, see the guide to how a suit should fit.

Frequently asked questions

What are the different types of lapels?

The three main types of lapels are the notch lapel, the peak lapel and the shawl lapel. The notch lapel is the most common, the peak lapel is the most assertive, and the shawl lapel is for tuxedos.

Which is more formal, a peak or a shawl lapel?

The peak lapel is the more formal by tradition. It is the usual lapel on a tailcoat and a morning coat. The shawl lapel is kept for evening wear, and both are correct on a black tie tuxedo.

Which is better, a peak or a notch lapel?

Neither is better in general. A notch lapel suits more occasions, so it is the better first choice. A peak lapel is better for double-breasted jackets, tuxedos and formal events.

What is the difference between a lapel and a collar?

The collar is the band that goes around the back of the neck. The lapel is the front panel that continues from the collar and folds back across the chest.

What is the purpose of a lapel?

A lapel frames the shirt and tie and shapes the V at the front of the jacket. It also carries the buttonhole for a boutonniere or a lapel pin.

Are wide lapels in style?

Yes, wide lapels are worn today, mostly on double-breasted jackets and on broad builds. If you are unsure, a regular width of about 3.25 inches is the safe choice.